Yvonne, Bea, Anyone Who Knows Wood Furniture.....
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Yvonne, Bea, Anyone Who Knows Wood Furniture.....
Okay, I have a new kitchen table. It is made of 'solid Asian hardwood' and it is basically like a hardwood floor. It's made up of about one inch thick slabs of all different lengths, about 2.5 inches wide each. It's been stained to a golden color. My issue is the finish. It LOOKS fine and it feels perfectly smooth. BUT, it is not the slightest bit glassy or shiny. I don't need it to LOOK that way, but my concern is that there is either no, or very little 'finish' on it. When I wiped it off with a wet paper towel it made a horrible sandpaper noise and the cloth did not effortlessly slide over the table. There was no rough pulling or anything, as I said it's smooth...but it's just not glassy and it doesn't glide.
What should I do? Should I put some polyurethane on it? Is that the finish of choice for a kitchen table? I'm terrified to do so...I especially don't want to use a brush on it as I'm afraid of brush marks. Is there a spray I could use if I took it outside? Could I even apply anything just as it is, or would I need to 'prepare' it somehow?? Should I just let it go and assume all will be well??
What about wax? Would a couple coats of wax rubbed in and then rubbed off do anything? Or would that actually HARM it and render it unable to ever be properly finished?? This is the second table as the first one had a big scratch in it and they ordered us a new one. The first one was more glassy and the cloth glided over it. I am not dealing with this store again, I will solve this problem without them, it's far less stressful. I'm just saying that I HAVE experienced this table in a glossier finish. Again, I don't mean LOOKS wise...I mean how it FEELS.
It FEELS very dry, but again, it's not rough and it has been stained, and of course it's many, many boards all put together, so if it wasn't good and solid and smooth, it would be noticeable in a hundred different spots.
Is it possible for wood to be sealed, yet feel that way? The water on the cloth doesn't disappear into the wood or anything, but I hate how it sounds when rubbing it and it concerns me.
Any advice?? TIA!
It does NOT sound like it is sealed. It also sounds like it was not sanded smooth.
You have two options.
1) Poly
2) tung oil
Polyurethane is not too difficult and there is a water based one that I prefer (minwax brand). It does not show brush strokes.
Tung oil is what I have put on my antique table. It gets a new coat every few years. It is easy to apply (with a cloth) and leaves a sheen that is not too shiny but definitely smooth.
Can I just apply it without doing anything to the table first? Would I just buy this stuff and brush it on??
What about fumes? I'm stuck inside for a few months now at least....
Would you definitely do one or the other? Which is better for the table and for the PURPOSE of a table (ie. spills, spaghetti sauce drips, art projects...)?
Is it possible to apply either of these things EVENLY? I'm so scared I'm going to wreck it.
Why does it sound like it wasn't sanded smooth? It does feel smooth...
The dry part makes me wonder if it was smooth.
The water based poly does not have too bad of fumes (compared to the oil based ones). It is also more user friendly (water clean-up)
The tung oil has fumes too. They do not hang in the air too long.
Poly will be put on once and your done.
Tung oil will have to be applied very few years.
I would probably poly. You apply a thin coat at a time. For your kitchen table, I would apply 3 coats minimum.
You CAN do it! You will not wreck it.
Scared. To. Death.
Can I just put it on RIGHT NOW without doing anything to it?? What if I'm crazy and it HAS been 'finished' somehow...will I be making it worse or ruining it by still applying poly? How long in between coats for drying? How large a can for a five foot long table? What kind of paintbrush? Which poly, exactly? Minwax what?
Again...Scared. To. Death.
It will not hurt to have more poly on it if it already has some. A regular size can 32 Ounce Minwax water based Polycrylic protective finish is what you want. It has a blue label. I allow 8 hours between coats. It says 2 so it is your decision. I use cheap throw away brushes. Be careful that if any paintbrush hairs come out that you remove before drying. A foam brush works great too.
YOU CAN DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Would you do this? Or would you think it will just be fine and not do anything?
Do I need to prep it first or can I just start applying it? Will it adhere to ANYthing?
Do I need to sand between coats?
How thick do I apply it?
What are the many ways I could screw this up?
How is it that no brush strokes will show?
How quickly does it dry?? I mean, can I go back and forth over it smoothing it and such before it partly dries and makes a mess when I pull the brush back thru it??
Can I purchase this in matte finish?
Will my cloth then 'glide' over it?
Would you do this? Or would you think it will just be fine and not do anything?
OK--does water bead up on the surface? If so--you do have a protective coating.
Do I need to prep it first or can I just start applying it? Will it adhere to ANYthing?
You just need a clean surface.
Do I need to sand between coats?
The instructions say you do. I admit I never have.  I have never had a problem.
How thick do I apply it? A thin layer at a time. It is like painting.
What are the many ways I could screw this up?
None. YOU CAN DO THIS!
How is it that no brush strokes will show?
I don't know why but they don't. If you are worried use a foam brush. They do not show at all. I use a regular brush and nothing I have done has brush strokes on it.
How quickly does it dry?? I mean, can I go back and forth over it smoothing it and such before it partly dries and makes a mess when I pull the brush back thru it?? It dries in about an hour. Yes-- you can go over it.
Can I purchase this in matte finish? I use satin finish. I know there is high gloss and satin. I do not know if there is a matte.
Will my cloth then 'glide' over it?
Assuming you mean afterwards (when it is dry) yes a cloth should glide over it.
Well, if I flick water on it it makes beads and bubbles, yes. If I run a wet cloth over it it makes teeny tiny beads that are practically microscopic and dry fast.
What I also find strange is that my girls have cherry Pennsylvania House beds, so high quality wood and high quality manufacturer. I noticed that on their beds the wood feels dry, too! Maybe I'm truly crazy (very, very possible...) but I do know this second table is less glossy and 'glide-y' feeling and it DOES *sound* different. I don't like it. I WANT to put more finish on it. Will it look like it does now, or will it look like I gooped stuff on it?? Will it flake off?? I really didn't think you could apply it to just anything....is it possible the table has some sort of funky finish on it that would reject the poly and I'd have a mess on my hands? So confused.
Thank you SO much for your patience and expertise!!
Oh, and what about the wax idea? Is waxing wood a good idea in general?? I've never had a wood kitchen table before...my other table had a formica top which looked like wood but was indestructible.
It will look like the finish you put on it. It will not look like gooped anything. Why don't you buy a can of the poly. Do a test patch underneath the table. This way you can see what will happen without the worry of it being on top of the table. If you like it, then you can go ahead with the table top.
There should be no "funky finish". I once put poly on an antique toy box that has several layers of paint on it. This is one that shows all the layers of paint. The poly protected it from not chipping any further. It did not mess up the distressed finish. It simply protected the finish. That is what polyurethane is for.
It does not chip or flake. You are overthinking this.
Do a test patch. That will give the piece of mind to complete the entire table.
My kitchen table doesn't appear to have a finish on it but it does. Water beads up when spilled on it. We've had it for 12 years and the finish is in great shape (minus the pen marks from DS coloring on it).
I've used the oil based minwax and it's pretty easy to use and didn't show any brush marks- I used it on our upstairs hall floor. The odor was bad since it was oil based but it looked good when it was done and was easy to use. Water based is supposed to be even easier to use without all the fumes. I'd give it a shot if you don't like the current finish. Just sand it lightly before your first coat.
Jenn, how does your table FEEL? Does your cloth GLIDE across it??
Yvonne...ME??? ME, overthink something?? Surely you've confused me with someone else...for that is SO not my personality.... Um, well, okay, that is TOTALLY my personality.
Good idea about the underside...this table came with two benches and I can easily turn them right over and varnish the backs. Thanks! With poly, does it then feel glassy and slippery?
It feels smooth. High gloss is more glassy than satin finish.
Kate, the cloth does glide across it- but not as easily as something with a shiny finish. My table has a different finish on the underside- so make sure the finish is the same on the top before you test it. Or..you can test it on the bench since you have cushions to hide it if you don't like it. This table has been a lot of work for you!! LOL!
Waiting to hear if you bit the bullet and started varnishing??
No, not yet....still scared. I just think I'm going to ruin it, despite your confidence!! My fear is that it will look like an amateur got a hold of it and did a novice job on it. Eons ago I stained and poly-ied a wood door. I can see ugly drip marks and heavier stain in some spots than others....and it does NOT feel glassy or feel like it has a finish on it. I wish you could come up here and look at this thing and tell me if it needs a top coat or not!!! Will it 'gel' as it dries? I mean, if I DO apply it unevenly, will it just kinda all gel together anyway and smooth out?? And will the final coat need a sanding to make it smooth and glassy? It LOOKS nice so I hate to mess with it, but if the finish is skimpy I know it won't look nice for long! Will putting poly on also help with scratches and such? Will it give it a harder surface?? Also, it's my KITCHEN TABLE!!! EVERYONE will see it and it's a flat surface and all and right by a window...EVERY mistake will be noticed and magnified, hence my great terror. I do paint a lot...is it just like painting?? If I wreck it there really isn't anything I can do to fix it, right? Sigh...(you must be regretting asking and starting this again....)
OK my advice is to buy the tung oil. Rub it on and be done.
Ohhhh, suuuuure, now open THAT avenue!! Why the tung oil??? We haven't discussed at length THIS option...it was merely mentioned in passing....
Now we need to devote another day and another ten posts to tung oil.
Seriously, why that now?? Is it because you DO think I'm going to ruin it?? Because it IS ruinable??
Kate you are a trip. I would LOVE to meet you in person
Tung oil is like a liquid wax that provides a protective finish. You rub it on and buff it much like you would waxing your car. It does not last forever (apply once a year or so will do the trick).
Why do I suggest it? Because it is not permanant --I figured it would take some of the fear away.
I DO NOT THINK YOU WILL RUIN YOUR TABLE! I am confident that you CAN do it! You need to believe it too.
Pure Tung Oil is a finishing product that provides a tough, flexible and highly water-resistant coating. It resists marring, penetrates well, is elastic and unlikely to check. Tung oil builds quickly, consolidates the wood surface and builds a transparent matte finish. Pure Tung Oil contains no thinners or driers and has a light nutty odor. The surface should be dusted to remove all loose particles. Any filling, sealing or staining must be done before the oil is applied. The first coat should be a liberal one, and you can rub it over the wood with your hand, a soft rag. Allow this application to sit for 5-10 minutes so the oil can soak in, then remove any excess with clean soft rags. Check after about half an hour for any seeping, and rub this off as well. Let dry completely (24-48 hours) between coats. For woods with very open pores, allow an extra 24 hours drying time.
Renewal and building coats are quickly applied with cheese cloth, a lint free cloth or old nylon stockings. This process will give you a surface that will stand up to vigorous use and spills: water will bead on the surface.
Pure Tung Oil is recommended for kitchen tables, chopping blocks and boards, and similar uses. Its non-toxic nature makes it particularly appropriate for children's toys and furniture. It gives good protection to wood paneling and molding.
Pure Tung Oil's matte finish will do nicely on certain pieces of furniture, but if a glossy finish is preferred you will need to buff and wax the finish, or use polymerized tung oil or a formulated tung oil based product.
Do you have a furniture finishing place in your area? Would it be possible for you to take a leaf from the table to them and get their opinion of what is on it and if it needs something more done to it? I am sure you could get a free estimate and they would tell you if it was fine or if it needed more sealant. You could go from there if something more needed done. Then you could debate with yourself if it is something you wanted to do yourself. If this is a new table, I would have to believe it is fine the way it is. I don't blame you for being scared to ruin it, I would be too!!
Well okay then! You've now made the poly look easy!!! Head spinning...
Yvonne, if you'd like to meet me I would be MORE than happy to have you come on up and do an 'Extreme Makeover' on my home...just say the word!
Vicki, that's an awesome idea...but sadly this table is solid with no leaves. And the chairs and benches feel differently than the table.
One particular corner feels drier or more scruffy than the others, and THAT corner is one where a splash of color was added on to the edge, and then the edge was sprayed with some sort of finish. I'm wondering if the spatter from the spray got on the part that feels extra scruffy...maybe THAT'S why that section feels worse than the rest...
Now Yvonne...are you confident I won't ruin it EVEN WITH THE POLY? Will the poly make it extra hard and resistant to scratches?
Kate, there is a no-gloss poly finish that sounds like what is on your table. We have finished our antique trestle table, that we use as our kitchen table with it. You really can't spray a polymer finish over some other finishes. They will blister, and you will really have a mess. I agree that you need someone who knows finishes to give you advice on this. You can call Furniture Medic and they will come to your house for a small fee.
You really can't spray a polymer finish over some other finishes. They will blister, and you will really have a mess.
I agree with this and that is why I suggested you have a professional look at it first. I recently had my kitchen table redone and they did a test spot and watched for it to bubble. If it had bubbled, I would have had to had it stripped etc etc etc. If this is a brand new table, I can't believe it wouldn't be done correctly. Have you contacted the company that you bought it from to ask about the finish? I just wouldn't put anything on it without knowing what was already on it. You might be fine, but you might have a mess too.
I did not see her ask about spraying?
I thought she was referencing tht the old finish may have been sprayed. I never suggested spraying (I do not like sprayed finishes).
The poly I suggested can be put over finishes.
A test patch on the underside of the benches will answer all your questions.
You've gotten some great advice, but why don't you call the furniture store that you bought it from and ask them how to care for it?
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